Taking place at Nuit Blanche in Toronto, the Art of Fashion competition is a chance for Canadian fashion designers to raise the bar when it comes to being audaciously creative.  From the press release:

TORONTO, ON, August 17, 2010 – Designers across Canada are invited to enter the 12th annual Art of Fashion design competition and trunk show in Toronto, where the winner will be awarded a minimum cash prize of $1000, a complimentary professional photo shoot with model, hair and makeup, street-level exposure in the window display of one of Toronto’s top fashion outlets, and more.  Entry deadline for this career-launching opportunity is Tuesday, August 31^st, 2010.

The design competition and trunk show will take place at King West Fitness in Liberty Village during Nuit Blanche on Saturday, October 2^nd, 2010.  To apply, designers should visit www.artoffashion.org/labelleepoque and fill out the submission form before Tuesday, August 31^st, 2010.

Every year, Toronto Fashion Incubator runs a competition for the most promising young designers in Canada.  The contestants are run through a series of judging panels over the course of six months, culminating in a runway show at the ELLE show.  This year, sponsor Mattel heated up the competition by putting real money on it, a cash prize – $10,000 – amazing!

Anastasia Lomonova brought the drama with some really lavish dresses.  Anastasia was a classmate of mine for a couple years at Ryerson before taking off to Montreal and launching her label. Lots of texture and style – sometimes piled on, sometimes a lighter touch.  Its so neat to see someone’s style developed so far beyond fashion school.

House of Groves was leather, studs and riding crops, but the crowd really applauded when the full-skirted silhouette (lower right) came out – it seems like after so much tight and short, a great full skirt falling below the knee just feels like a breath of fresh air.

Diepo is lingerie transitioning towards cocktail – sort of night-to-later-that-night.  The runway was white and slick and all of the designers sent their models out in treacherous heels – so that all came to a head with the model on the lower-right – as she walked out her shoes seemed to literally fly off her feet and skid off both sides of the runway – you can see a gentleman picking it up in the background.  I’ve never seen anything like it.

Birds of North America brought the closest thing to colour that we saw that night – dusky navy blue, brown and burgundy.  The style of the dresses was more of the twee stuff that usually comes down New Labels runway in years past as opposed to the dominant theme of tough-sexy stuff we see this year. Maybe this shift in style is reflecting changes in the judging panel this year.  I often wonder, watching New Labels, whether the lengthy, involved judging process is a good thing – it seems to result in a certain homogenization among the contestants – or are our most promising Canadian designers really so alike?  The lack of statement colour on the runway was a bit disappointing – are we afraid of colour?

Paris Li‘s collection showed some sharp tailoring and some pretty sophisticated looks that suggest dressing for success.  Over all, all of the designers showed really chic, wearable designs – and perhaps the similarities make it a bit fairer to judge each designer against the other – but then again, at the end of the show, I couldn’t really think of which designer had really raised the bar. It reminded me a bit of the Press Breakfast at Holt Renfrew recently which was similar in the monotony of hues. When so much about fashion is personality, I wonder why designers don’t try more aggressively to differentiate themselves from one another.  Or are the designer really just catering their wares to the tastes of their curators? Either way, it leaves me with a taste for something more.

Lastly, each designer showed a few LBD looks made especially for their sponsor, Barbie.  These were all fun looks and here at least, all the blackness was part of the brief.

Anastasia Lomonova, House of Groves, Diepo, Birds of North America, Paris Li.

This year’s New Labels winner is Anastasia Lomonova – congratulations!  Thanks so much to Faulhaber and the TFI for inviting me to cover the event.

Evan Biddell is a designer with a flair for showmanship, and he is a designer who excels at notice-me clothes being worn by beautiful, confident women.  For his show at FAT, he teamed up with vintage dealer Refinery to notch the volume up using vintage clothing as materials – and better yet, he got his most outgoing friends to model the clothes. Pastel Supernova opened the show, and set the tone for a cast ready to steal the spotlight.

This is the kind of show that FAT does best – the models are fiercely unique, cartwheeling for the cameras.

Usually Biddell’s friends sit front row at his shows, and this time they had assigned seats too – mind you assigned with playful nicknames – which they strutted past.

“Sunny with a chance of Gail” had the most wonderful outrageous outfit, and turned the cameras on the audience for a change.

For the curtain call the enthusiastic models all took their seats and applauded their outfitters.

… and they stayed in their seats to watch the next show.  Somehow Biddell managed to pack the most memorable runway moments into a short fashion show that I have ever seen.  Cheers to all the lovely models for a job well done.

Its hard to believe that it has been four years since my own turn on the runway at my old fashion school.  Ryerson School of Fashion‘s grad show is called Mass Exodus, and its the best show in Toronto to see really exciting, unusual, and sometimes just plain weird ideas that only a fashion student would have the time and freedom to think up and proceed to spend six entire months executing.

There is usually about 50 grad collections, and these are just a small selection, in no particular order, with my comments.  I think it was one of the strongest groups of designers I’ve ever seen in Mass Exodus (curated by Sarah Casselman), and it was really touching to see them all get to take a curtain call. It really is a grand accomplishment to complete a small collection on your own for the first time, so every graduate deserves admiration and congratulations.

Adelaide Kim‘s collection is striking for its maturity and sincerity.  The items are wearable, want-able, classic and yet still novel – the use of transparent plaid organza for a jacket was a really neat concept, executed very cleanly.  Of all the collections, this was the one I can easily imagine being worn and recommended by fashion editors, who love that type of loose, unfussy, wry sophistication.

Amanda Kew Lee‘s collection was pretty much the ultimate in obsessed fashion student indulgence.  A slew of recent trends – studs, leggings with transparent panels, studs, pagoda shoulders, studs, headbands, studs – amped up to the next level.  Executed with devastating diligence, this collection is like a lovingly made time capsule, making the recent past seem like something worth getting nostalgic about just six months later.

Bianca Liu went the extra mile and designed her own textile patterns – really lovely, delicate, watery, painterly patterns that my poor photos do no justice to.  I only wish some of the tops were a bit longer – something about the proportions – or maybe its how the clothing has been combined – seems awkward around the hips.  But the overall sense of looseness, and the measured choices of colours, really made this one a stand out for me.

A2B by Jade Sullivan-Vallentyne was a playful pass on casual clothes for men.  Great jeans, hot colours, an affectionate evocation of Slater and Zack from Saved By the Bell, a snarky subversion of hipness.  Tacky and terrific.

Genevieve Pearson‘s outerwear was just so slickly executed – and outerwear is challenging to do – it looked so totally pro.  The all-blackness was a bit predictable (would have loved to see these in colours!) but the confidence and quality is just outstanding.

Romandin by Cristina Sabaiduc had the most adventurous fabrications – chicken wire and silicone caulking are what gave these garments their tremendous structure and texture, without giving away their identity as hardware.  Cristina is expanding her collection to show in FAT (Fashion Art Toronto) – I am really intrigued about how she will develop her themes further.

I didn’t manage to get a decent photo of Sofronov by Aneta Sofronova , thankfully the designer let me use these drawings (which are AMAZING) from her website.  Its truly modern menswear that nods to technological habits and interprets traditional tailoring details without being too precious about it. Neat.

The finale collection was all golden hues, and abundant clusters of raw-edged floaty fabrics by Emily Baker and Andrea Spano.

Last week was LG Fashion Week here in Toronto. I gave myself a break this season from trying to provide some sort of timely coverage (so many others do it better, check FASHION Magazine for one), but some have been asking very politely for my thoughts on the matter.

So I’ve been trying to sort out what I think and feel about it all.  LG Fashion Week is always a week of intensity.  The whole circus keeps getting bigger, outgrowing venues season after season.  I am not great with crowds.  It sort of feels like going back to school – assignments and awkwardness, in crowds and outcasts.

In the end, I don’t think I have the emotional energy to sort it all out, so I’ve decided to just collect together a bunch of amazing photos, generously shared by Peter from Studiolit, and intersperse them with some of my random thoughts and unsolicited opinions. Its a big scroller of a post. So, I’m sorry, or, you’re welcome.

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Thanks to Susan Langdon, I had the great opportunity to work with the Youth Employment Service’s Passion for Fashion program, produced in collaboration with the Toronto Fashion Incubator.  The program was created to provide free workshops and mentors for young fashion industry entrepreneurs.

It was my first ever experience as a teacher – I taught the class on Visual Presentation for Fashion, and it was an incredible learning experience for me too.  As a student, I don’t think I ever fully appreciated how much work it is to teach a class.  The first time I did it, I was so nervous I finished over an hour ahead of schedule, it was awkward.  By the fifth session, I discovered that teaching is something I really enjoy.  The students are wonderful characters, curious and excited.  Questions and answers are the most fun, and I found it especially delightful when the class would roll with the discussion and start helping each other.

I was also asked to be a judge for the competition portion of the program.  Graduates of the program were challenged to put together a business plan and a visual presentation, to be pitched to a panel of judges for a chance to win a cash prize, TFI membership, and a significant mentorship program.  This was also my first time judging a competition, and again, I felt intimidated.  The other judges were also the other instructors – designers Jen Kluger of Foxy Originals, Kendra Francis of Franke, and business advisor Richard Healy.

Instantly the judging panel hit it off – they are all such smart and kind people – and I overcame my nervousness as we saw each of the finalists in turn for their short presentations.  It was awesome to me how much work they all had put into their business plans – a huge task I myself have never done, and the passion and determination of all the finalists was incredibly inspiring.  Choosing a winner was a difficult task for the panel.  There were a number of great ideas, and some finalists were already well underway putting their plans into action.  After much careful consideration, we selected Stephanie McNeil.

Stephanie impressed us all with the amount of energy she had already dedicated to her business, her eagerness to learn, and her sincerity. The judges all agreed that she would really thrive with the guidance and community of the Toronto Fashion Incubator behind her.  We all felt very happy when she was presented with the award, it was definitely the right decision.

Here in the picture is Sinead McCarthy from YES, Richard, Kendra, Stephanie, me, Nancy Schaefer from YES, and Susan Langdon from the TFI.

Thanks to everyone (and Jen too who isn’t in the photo) I also want to send a super special important thank you to Gabrielle Zilkha at YES, who did so much great work putting this program together.

I’d also like to thank all of the wonderful participants of the Passion for Fashion program.  Especially the finalists.  Watch out for these names in the future – so much enthusiasm and hard work guarantees that these young people belong in the fashion industry:

• Amita Parikh
• Ariel Fu
• Ashley Yankana
• Ginger Martini
• Juliana Carlucci
• Kevin Naulls
• Kristi Soomer
• Larissa Leone and Jenni Wood
• Santanae Luzige
• Wes Misener

15 designers, 17 paper dolls, over 60 items of clothing and accessories to play with.  This is the result of a rather involved project I gave to myself to commemorate the Spring 2010 collections shown in Toronto this October.

The resulting dolls are available in a book from Blurb for $42.95 USD. It was supposed to be available for Christmas but… it’s not unless you’re willing to pay for premium shipping.  So buy it for yourself!  If you can’t afford it, I’ve put together a mini-PDF booklet you can download for free, print off yourself and play with.  Full-size PDF files are also available for just $17.95.

You can buy a book. Or, you can win a book.  How?  Using the JPGs available here, I want you to dress a doll; use Photoshop or another program to help you do it.  The challenge is to use a model from one designer and clothing and accessories from at least two other designers.  The best mashed-up outfit wins a book.

Something like this: Brandon R Dwyer’s model with Jessica Jensen’s clutch and VAWK’s dress. I am sure you can do even better than that.

But that’s not all; I’d like to see you have some fun with it.  So I’ll also give away a few full-size PDFs to entries I think are particularly funny, or wicked, or clever.  Bonus points for photoshopping in some backgrounds and speech bubbles.  Go for it.  To qualify, post your entry on your blog or facebook profile with a link to this post – entries are due December 21st.

Right now students from my old fashion school are competing in a design challenge sponsored by Danier.  As a modern twist, their nerve-wracking design presentations are videoed and uploaded online for rating and commenting.  Watching these videos fills me with nostalgia, embarrassment and relief that I was not videotaped as a fashion student.  Fashion students have their own unique type of intensity, and the videos are a bit too revealing of the bathos of young fashion ambition.

Most of the designs do not live up to their breathless sales pitches.  The cliches of student design – too many snaps, too many zippers, too many buttons, fussy buckle closures, funnel necks, detachable pieces with no practical purpose, mismatching sleeves, restricted mobility for the wearer – are all there.  If you think I’m making fun – just wait until I show you some of my early “designs”.  There is a very good reason why I know what a fashion student effort looks like.  A few entries went above and beyond the rest though – here are four designers whose jackets piqued my interest.

John Hillifer (above) is not charismatic at the beginning, as he avoids making eye contact with the judge – but his conviction becomes apparent as he shows his design – it shows that he has thought of his design in three dimensions, it features a collar which looks terrific both open and closed, and a unique pocket concept including a hidden pocket.  All on a muslin with exceptional finish.  “Dark industrial” may not be very Danier and yet it is apparent that this designer will produce an excellent leather jacket.

Valerie Crisp was the only designer with the guts to go for less instead of more.  While in a muslin this jacket may seem slightly unconvincing, the remarkable restraint for a fashion student shows that she has a working understanding of the Danier brand – and a burgeoning sense of taste.

Monica Kisielewicz has that peculiar intensity to her presentation that is bordering on overwhelming, stating an obsession with status with remarkable candour.  Though her design borders on the obvious/clever interpretation of her inspiration – the zipper placket looks like a highway – it is saved by a sense of simplicity.

Eric Tong‘s jacket is so of the moment, and the finish is very confident as was the designer’s presentation – it could have fit in very well in any FW09 runway show, but somehow seems a stretch for Danier.  But maybe a stretch in the right direction?

Right now all 15 finalists are hard at work on making the final leather version of their designs before Christmas.  I can’t wait to see the results.

Rolling back into town on the bus on Friday, I checked my old-school paper planner and remembered that R4 Fashion was on that night!  Lucky chance that I caught the early bus.

This is an image of a pretty dress on the best model of the night (work!) by designer Rachel Chan featuring recycled Coca-Cola cans.  For the full story of an amusing and unusual evening and a couple more pictures, check under the fold.

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The byline for next year’s Toronto Alternative Arts & Fashion Week is “made with love” – sounds familiar?  But knowing [FAT] it won’t be the usual kind of love. They’re seeking inventive designers and artists to participate.

TORONTO ALTERNATIVE ARTS AND FASHION WEEK – CALL 4 FASHION DESIGNERS, VISUAL ARTISTS, MUSICIANS

April 21-24 2010 marks the 5th anniversary edition of |FAT| Toronto Alternative Arts and Fashion Week. We are now accepting entries in Fashion Design – Photography – Video – Performance – Music – Installation Art for the 2010 event.

Entry Deadline: Dec.22/09

To Apply and Participate Visit:  www.getfat.ca