how to draw a fashion figure

drawing,illustration — Danielle on April 26, 2012 at 11:37 am

Have you ever wondered how I draw a fashion figure? You’re not the only one. This post was a reader request – thanks Eliza! My technique is not original – it is based on studying texts and the instruction I received in university. I like to recommend books by Bina Abling and Steven Stipelman for aspiring fashion illustrators – be aware, not all fashion illustration texts are of equal quality.

Now, I have done this so many times it is second nature, so I rarely create a draft this formal anymore, and my sketches are now much looser and more enigmatic. However, for clarity I’ve broken it down into 10 steps. If you can follow instructions, you too can draw a fashion figure. Grab three (or more) sheets of translucent layout paper or tracing paper, a pencil and whatever other art materials you’ve got on hand, and you’re ready to go.

1. Center Line. Start by drawing a straight line from the top of your sheet of paper to the bottom. You can use a ruler or go freehand if you like. Mark roughly where you want the top and bottom of your figure. Divide this segment into eight equal sections with small marks. I’ll refer to these marks in this post – for clarity, mark 1 is at the top.

2. Head and Attitude. Most fashion figures are 8-10 heads high. Mine tend to be around 8.5 heads high. Each section, therefore, stands for the height of a head. Draw an oval for the head in the top section. Then I like to take a few abstract, loose swipes to represent the movement of the figure. Because intentions count a lot in drawing, these lines help to give a fashion illustration mood and attitude – be confident, not hesitant. These lines can not be right or wrong. This is just the draft, and no one will see it, so don’t waste time erasing. If you don’t like a line, just draw another one – your eye will sort out which lines work best.

3. Spine, Shoulders and Hips. The next line represents the spine, and connects the head to the center mark on the vertical line. Are you familiar with contrapposto? This refers to the stance where the weight of the body is shifted to one leg which throws the shoulders and the hips into different angles. Almost all fashion figures are contrapposto. Draw a line halfway between the second segment, perpendicular to the angle of the neck for the shoulder. Draw another line at the center mark, perpendicular to the lower spine for the hips.

4. Torso. The body has two major solid sections with a soft spot in between, which you can see in action if you’ve ever watched a model walk in a runway video. The shoulders and the rib cage are one section, and the hip bones form the other. Draw simple trapezoidal shapes to represent each section, centered on the spine. Mark the navel on the spine around the fourth mark.  The line of the breasts is around the third mark. Make sure the breasts are parallel with the shoulders or they’ll look crazy. The other thing to remember is that each breast is equidistant from the spine.

5. Hands and Elbows. Decide what you want to do with the hands. I have one resting on the hip and one hanging down in a classic fashion pose. Starting with the hand first is the best trick I know for drawing a hand that looks like it is plausibly resting on a hip. Draw little shapes to stand in for the hands. Remember that the hands hang at about crotch level, at the center mark. Elbows hang at the fourth mark, aligned with the navel. For both arms, you can figure out where the elbow is by marking the radius of the elbow from the shoulder.

6. Arms, Legs and Feet. Since you know where the elbows fall, all you have to remember when you draw lines for the arms is that the forearm and the upper arm are the same length. For the legs, draw a line for each. Each leg has to be the same length so you’ll know where to put the feet. Remember to put a foot on either side of the center line – or if you’re brave, right on the center line like I did. If you put both feet on one side of the center line, she’ll look like she’s falling over. The knees are halfway between the ankles and the hips and just about parallel with the hips. At this point you should have a stick figure with even proportions – always double check. The major one is to make sure of is that the legs are as long or longer than the length of the torso and the head together. Forearms should equal upper arms, calf length is equal to thigh length, and so on.

7. Flesh and Face. Grab a second sheet of paper – you’re ready to flesh out your stick figure. This is easier with practice – you can draw oval shapes to represent the thighs and calves to help you out. Feel free to use photo or a mirror for reference when working out tricky bits like hands and feet. If something looks wrong, just keep drawing lines until one looks right. This is just the second draft – no one is going to see this one either, so don’t bother with erasing. Feel free to make changes and adjustments as you go – you can see I’ve changed one of the feet to a side view. To draft the face, draw a cross through the middle of your egg shape. The eyes are equidistant from the center, halfway between the top of the head and the bottom of the chin. The tip of the nose is halfway between the eyes and the chin, and the mouth is halfway between the nose and the chin.

8. Clothes and Hair. Now you’re ready to start dressing your figure and giving her hair. Use the center front line to help you with things like buttons and fly fronts. I’ve given her a very simple outfit that I would wear (though I don’t wear heels). If you’re putting a skirt on her, remember that the hem is parallel with the waist, or if the skirt sits on the hips, the hem will be parallel with the hips. Curve edges like cuffs, necklines and waistbands so they appear to be wrapping around the figure rather than resting on top of the figure.

9. Rendering. Grab one more sheet of paper, you’re finally ready to create the actual illustration! Out of the tangle of lines on your draft, just trace over the ones that you feel look right. In this case, I’ve just taken another sheet of layout paper and inked it in with various widths of Micron art pens – 0.1 for small details, 0.3 to define some of the edges, and an outline around the figure of 0.5. Less is more when it comes to inking, especially for details – a few quick, brief marks work better than lots of fussy, careful ones. If you’re using a thicker paper you’ll need a light box to help you trace your draft. You can use any materials you want to render the final – watercolours, pastels, markers – whatever you enjoy using. Because you’ve got a solid draft with good proportions, the final illustration should turn out fairly well no matter how you do it.

10. Colouring on Photoshop. (Top of the post!) If you inked it like I did, you can scan it into your computer at 300 dpi or higher. Open it in Photoshop and fiddle around with the levels or the contrast or whatever tools you prefer to create pure black lines on a white background. Clean the lines up up if you like – this is another chance to fix minor mistakes in inking. Then I add another layer on the multiply setting to colour it in. You can drop in textures if you have them, like I did for the denim. The dodge and burn tools are an easy way to create shading and highlights. There’s a million different ways to use Photoshop and you can always hit Ctrl+Z so just play around until you’re happy with the results.

There you go! You have illustrated a fashion figure. If you used this tutorial, I’d love to see what you came up with. Send me a note!

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    22 Comments »

    1. Thanks so much for sharing!
      this is really helpful :D

      Comment by Luciana — April 26 2012 @ 8:38 pm
    2. Very super cool. I’m going to have to break out my art supplies and see if I can swing this!

      Comment by Rachel — April 27 2012 @ 5:24 pm
    3. I’m so excited to try this! Thanks so much for breaking it down so carefully, it really seems to make sense.

      Comment by Ashley — April 29 2012 @ 8:38 pm
    4. Ah! I have always wondered! Thank you!

      Comment by Queen Bee of Beverly Hills — April 30 2012 @ 6:39 pm
    5. the sketches are great and the blocks are quite trendy, can i have access to download some of these great sketches?

      Comment by Garba Abdul Yakubu — May 7 2012 @ 5:10 pm
    6. Hi Garba,

      I’m not sure what you mean. If you follow the instructions you can have your own sketch.

      Comment by Danielle — May 7 2012 @ 6:33 pm
    7. Thanks for tips! :) I sometimes draw my fashion figures from a book, but I usually make everything from imagination. You can see it on my blog;)

      Comment by Marta — June 13 2012 @ 11:04 am
    8. I’m a sucker for artistic projects, whether it’s painting, drawing, or writing. Right now I am currently enthusiastically interested in making clothes. But as I’ve known my entire life, I can draw, but I suck at drawing humans!

      This post helped me in a matter of minutes. Now I’m practising over and over again, constantly referring to your words and direction, so thanks for that!

      Any way you could post a mini lesson on drawing male fashion figures?

      Comment by Emily — August 22 2012 @ 2:13 pm
    9. Thanks so much for this!

      Comment by Candy — November 6 2012 @ 1:19 pm
    10. thank you for this short enligthening.. i working with modelingprograms, and my latest work put me in a hard situation.. no actual referenceimage, but pictures about the client..
      so i have to make client in a pose , not photoghraphed, dress him in a safari dress, even i have to put in his hand a lioncub..
      with your short tut i can set the pose..

      Comment by Viktor — November 28 2012 @ 9:43 am
    11. Thank you so much for this much needed tutorial and now treasured reference!!!

      At one point in my life, I was to be a comic book artist (think Marvel). I put my pencil down nearly 20 years ago and dove into the technology world, but have been longing to start drawing again (I still have my drafting table!). Design forms interest me mostly due to their elegant lines, free-form, and simplicity. A simplicity which currently escapes me as I tend to try and detail EVERY line I put to paper instead of capturing the form. It’s sad…

      Comment by Roger Glass — January 3 2013 @ 8:23 am
    12. Hi everyone, glad you found the post helpful!

      Emily, pardon the slow reply, I am planning a post on male fashion figures soon, thanks for your patience.

      Roger, perhaps it would be helpful to think of drawing more in terms of gesture – it is gesture that produces the elegant lines, and as such it’s about intention and movement, like dancing. Try making different abstract gestures, take note of the character of the lines they produce.

      Comment by Danielle — January 5 2013 @ 1:29 pm
    13. Hi Danielle,

      many thanks for your guidance! I will definitely put it to use!

      Comment by Roger Glass — January 5 2013 @ 5:31 pm
    14. [...] how to draw a fashion figure – step by step, repeat x1000000. [...]

      Pingback by final fashion » 2012 redux — January 9 2013 @ 11:45 am
    15. hi danielle,
      hats off to you on doing this! You saved my project and thanks a bunch! hope you be successful in fashion designing!

      Comment by jain — January 11 2013 @ 7:37 am
    16. This web is great i jst wish there were more desighns nd steps 2 draw…but thnkx 4 helpin mwe this was a awsme expierience luv the niomi campell paper doll exellent..thnkx nd keep going u by far r my fav desighner

      Comment by PHanItaH — March 7 2013 @ 2:42 pm
    17. I’ve only just come across this. So detailed, thanks so much! Your figure doesn’t look unrealistically twiggy either, which I like. I’ve been struggling to find a tutorial on a slim, yet realistic figure, so thankyou!x

      Comment by Lauren — March 26 2013 @ 1:48 pm
    18. [...] I find drawing male figures more challenging than drawing female figures. Last year, when I posted the tutorial on female fashion figures I got requests for this post… I guess it took me a while to work up to [...]

    19. [...] http://finalfashion.ca/how-to-draw-a-fashion-figure/ [...]

    20. Thank you for sharing. Very nicely explained!

      Comment by Celia — December 6 2013 @ 2:03 pm
    21. Wow!!! amazing, so detailed. Keep it up!

      Comment by Alexsh Perz — April 24 2014 @ 3:02 am
    22. Thank u so much danielle,I m so in love with u ryt naw,I’m a tailor nd I design clothes but its bn a challenge tu sketch like d professionals but with ds I know I can do greater…I appric8 u so much.

      Comment by qomforte — July 19 2014 @ 1:12 pm

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