just a thought – terms of internship

just a thought — Danielle on January 31, 2010 at 4:03 pm

How do you break into the fashion industry from the outside?  Ask almost anyone – including me sometimes – and the suggestion will be to intern.  I feel a bit mixed as I give this advice because it is advice I never took.

While other fashion students were volunteering their time at acclaimed designers and national magazines, I hit the pavement with my meager portfolio and held out for a fashion job of any description – but for financial reasons, only if it paid.  I managed to find a few jobs, the two major ones were working as a cutting and alterations assistant in the basement workshop for a boutique designer and counting threads-per-inch on fabric samples for the private label department of a national retailer.  In many ways my experiences were the same as many fashion interns – with two major differences. One, I got paid a modest wage and two, I rarely had the opportunity to network on the job.

When trading shop talk with my friends and colleagues now I wonder sometimes if I sold myself short for minimum wage.  There are some amazing internship opportunities out there for the ambitious young go-getters.  I asked a couple fashion blog friends to comment on their own experiences.  Ophelia of The Eternal Intern tells me,

In my opinion, internships are the only way (other than personal contacts) to get into the fashion industry.  I have found that the best jobs/internships are never posted online, but spread by word of mouth through what I call “the Old Girls Club”.  I got wind of an internship at FASHION via twitter and since then my former boss has put me in touch with people hiring for jobs that a “contact-less” job seeker would probably never see.  The fashion industry is very incestuous, but once you know the right people all kinds of doors open!  The best way to get in is by interning (and doing a stellar!) job so people take notice and want to call in favors for you.

Ophelia has interned at magazines both in Toronto and Paris and has seen many facets of fashion intern existence – I asked her what she looks for when applying for an internship.

When looking for an internship, I always consider the following:
The company:  Is it well-respected and globally recognized?  If I am going to work for free, I want to make sure I at least have something amazing to put on my resume!

The internship description:  I have done internships where I am treated like an employee and have gained so much experience and then others where I photocopy alllllll day!  The only thing an intern gains from an internship is the experience, so I always look for a chance to learn something new.

The benefits:  A paid internship is a dream come true!  Even if they pay for lunch and a metropass, it’s better than nothing.  For me, the company and the job description definitely outweigh the other criteria.   Working for Vanity Fair for example, would be such an incredible learning opportunity that I would overlook just about everything else!

Length, days/week:  I it is an unpaid internship, being able to intern 3 days/week and then work the others is key.  It gets a little frustrating giving all your time away for free, so having a few days off really helps.

If you’re really interested in intern dish, you must check out Ophelia’s blog – The Eternal Intern – where she and two friends document the dreams and dramas of scoring a job in the glamour industry.

Another fashion blog friend who entered the fashion industry through some prestigious internships is my friend Truc of Deeply Superficial who spent time as a design intern at Marc Jacobs and as an editorial intern at Teen Vogue.  Truc and I are opposite sides of the coin when it comes to our approach to entering the fashion industry so our conversations on the subject can get feisty.  The gist is that Truc believes in working inside the system and I tend to work outside the system.  Truc says,

I have done almost a dozen internships over the years, ranging from museums to fashion designers to small business retailers to national mass market chains. I think I gained a great deal from these internships, and the body of knowledge really build up my understanding of various facets of the fashion industry, and complemented my education in fashion design and later on for my MA research. Most of my internships were unpaid, at least at the beginning. Some I hated and others I stayed on for years at.

What I gained:
1) The internships exposed me to all the different parts of the “fashion” industry, and I was able to really learn what it means on a day to day basis to be, for example, a “fashion designer” in Toronto or a museum curator at the ROM. I discovered my strengths and weaknesses, and what I definitely didn’t want to pursue.

2) I think you have to start somewhere, and being an intern is great because the level of commitment is lower – if you don’t like something, you can walk away easily after the term is over! For me, I’ve always been fortunate that several of my internships (four) lead directly to paying freelance and assistant positions with the same company, which I wouldn’t have necessarily been hired for otherwise.

3) I made valuable industry contacts in Toronto and New York through my internships, and having all that work experience was incredibly helpful when I was looking for my first job (now, 3 years after graduation, I only have 2 publishing internships out of all of them listed on my resume). Even now, I keep in touch with some of my internship coordinators from companies such as Joeffer Caoc and Marc Jacobs, and these women have become my mentors and friends.

4) Thinking back, I was an awful and amazing intern at various points, sometimes during the same internship! But I don’t regret a single experience or lament the loss of potential wages (ie if I had been working retail and getting paid instead for those hours), because I can pinpoint so many things that I’ve learned about businesses and being an assistant and managing others through these work experiences.

Truc is one of my favourite fashion friends – all the more so because we’re so different – and a truly thoughtful fashion writer.  Her take on fashion at Deeply Superficial is highly recommended.

Considering others experiences, it is clear to me that given the right opportunities an internship can be a valuable, wonderful, and even life-changing experience.  I certainly missed out on a world of opportunity by not being inside.  Yet I am skeptical that internships are the only way – or necessarily the best way – to get into the fashion industry. And via Final Fashion, I am essentially betting my own career on this.

Without diminishing the considerable talents of my peers and friends, I think it is fair to state that internships are the most conventional way of entering the fashion industry.  As a system, the fashion intern industrial complex has some issues which are a whole other post – exacerbating financial and social inequalities – which sometimes turn bridges into barriers for the talented and underprivileged. Except, talent can fly.

Two examples. One, the bohemian ideal is exemplified by Viktor & Rolf who created couture in the bubble of a one-room flat in Paris, showed how ambition can manifest success outside the system. Two, the magic of the internet allows a teenager in suburban America to share her passion for style and offers her the opportunities of a lifetime.

My own bid for an unconventional entry is not as meteoric (yet) but takes inspiration from these kinds of stories. The essence is that if you fiercely want to live a certain kind of life and you manifest it even with meager resources – whether it is a blog or in V&R’s case, a miniature collection in 1996 that galvanized their desires – it is possible to enter the world of fashion on your own terms.

Hard work, talent and persistence is a potent combination whether it is inside or outside the system. It is probably not good advice for most people to subvert established channels – unconventional success is rare for a reason.  But I would say that if circumstances determine that you can’t get your dream internship, to not give up, and to consider alternatives that would allow you do what you desire, now. Even if it is just in a small, symbolic way.

like this post? share it -

    11 Comments »

    1. Interesting post, I like the different perspectives. I haven’t interned in the fashion industry but I have in the music industry and they can be quite similar in some ways. It sucks to work for free especially when in this recession it is hard to get even a part time retail job. The bigger companies probably can afford to pay at least minimum wage for their interns but they know that we will do what we have to do to get in the door, and unfortunately “paying your dues” is part of that mentality.
      I feel lucky that I was able to intern with some good people, the first being Sony Music. That was a two month full time internship that paid 25$ a day which covered food and a metropass, and having Sony on my resume has definitely paid off. I got interviews based on that internship alone and it basically showed me a career in digital media that I hadn’t even considered before.
      I definitely recommend interning but I do think there is a point where you should refuse to work for free. If you’ve already done a couple internships without being paid, don’t keep doing them or no one will ever pay you.
      Anyway, great blog, nice to see a fellow Torontonian producing good interesting content.

      Comment by Lisa — January 31 2010 @ 5:50 pm
    2. Great post Danielle! I love seeing the different points of view. But all in all, this fashion system heavily favours the rich, or at least the ones who are wealthy enough to be able to commit to interning for free 3+ days a week.

      On another note, I have learned a lot and gained so much experience due to my internships.

      Comment by Kitty — February 1 2010 @ 6:05 am
    3. Great article! Thanks Danielle!

      Comment by Casandra — February 1 2010 @ 11:09 am
    4. Very good post Danielle!
      I really do agree that an internship can be an incredibly valuabe experience, however it really does depend on many factors…A paid internship with little exposure to the business and little work for the intern to do is 100% less interesting than an unpaid, ton of work, ton of contacts gig…
      It’s very important to do your share of rsch before accepting an internship!!
      Awesome article!
      Flora xoxo (a real Eternal Intern!)

      Comment by Flora — February 2 2010 @ 4:27 pm
    5. I do agree that interning is an amazing opportunity and anyone wanting to break into fashion should try to do it. The best opportunities will not be advertised. My intern – John, found me through a mutual friend. At the time I didn’t know what work I’d give him but now I find him to be invaluable. I feel he has gained alot of experiences through assisting in other designers’ photo-shoots, doing all of my photography, and helping out at my events. The key to interning is to have a positive attitude – John has an amazing attitude to the point where I want to potentially hire him.

      Good luck all!

      Comment by Jas B — February 3 2010 @ 11:13 am
    6. Thanks all for sharing your comments & experiences.

      I think the point I was trying to make at the end of the article is that internship is really about employment – and that is why it is conventional. Its a well-trod path to a career in the fashion industry – but for those rare souls who see fashion as a calling rather than a career, internships may be completely unnecessary.

      I don’t regret taking the path that I did at all. By blogging and drawing I was able to start my career doing exactly what I wanted to do, (for only slightly more money than an unpaid internship), instead of working my way up through a heirarchy. Not that I would recommend it – but I think that given the ever-extending terms of internment that people are dealing with in the recession, it should be pointed out that there are other ways to live your fashion ambition.

      Comment by Danielle — February 3 2010 @ 11:34 am
    7. As a former intern at two women’s mags in Toronto I’m certainly an advocate of the internship. I had a lot of fun working within the offices of some of my favourite magazines, plus I got to make some great industry contacts. As far as whether or not an internship will land you the dream job, I’m still working on it. I’ve written about my internships (how I landed them, experiences, etc) on my blog, Life is Glossy.

      Comment by Erica — February 5 2010 @ 10:14 pm
    8. […] pay for creative work, that the job is worth doing for “great exposure” alone, but then I’m not a believer in unpaid internships either. There are some nifty magazines out there which are prestigious but don’t pay. As someone who […]

    9. […] services (strategic publicity or networking). If you’re a regular reader you already know my opinion on unpaid internships. In a saturated creative market like London, there is an implied expectation that you will do a […]

    10. […] in downplaying or denying it – I love this blog and I put a lot of heart, and time, into it. I never did unpaid internships to get into fashion – instead all my free time and priceless hopes I pinned on this […]

    11. […] without external financial support. I wrote a while back about how I’ve bet my career on blogging rather than interning – and it amounts to the same thing; the necessity of doing a vast amount of work up front for […]

      Pingback by final fashion » click click – 04-09-12 — September 4 2012 @ 4:25 pm

    RSS feed for comments on this post. TrackBack URI

    Leave a comment

    wordpress | barecity | final fashion | © Danielle Meder