press press cut cut

projects,the studio — Danielle on June 9, 2007 at 5:21 pm

aligning the grain

Lining up the silk against the edge of the table, ever so carefully trying to align the grainlines so my cut pieces won’t be wonky. It is a flowy silk without a lot of dimensional stability, so in short… I am taking my sweet time (read procrastinating) about getting to the sewing… but hey, it has to be cut right, right?

Right angles…

aligning the grainnew vaporbaby iron

Oh, and my old domestic iron finally died on me. For a $60 iron from Canadian Tire it has stood up to 6 years of the kind of punishment only a fashion design student can give. So I took the streetcar down Queen and promptly bought the junior version of an industrial steam iron. I looked longingly at the heavy duty steam iron, but frankly, I do not do the amount of ironing to justify that.
new vaporbaby iron

Still it is a sweet little iron and I hope it will stick with me for many years.

Here are the cut pieces for the underlining which is a simple princess line shift dress with a waist seam. The bodice is reinforced with a hidden interlining of cotton with a fairly high thread count for stability and a bit of support and comfort for the bride, I hope.

lining cut

I also picked up some new machine attachments for this dress; an invisible zipper foot and a 1/8″ hemmer. I will be doing a lot of test stitching. Some I may do on my domestic Necchi which has a nice short stitch and a whole boxful of attachments but a slight wonk in the needle shaft requires careful jury-rigging. The Singer has never really loosened up after being neglected by its former caretakers, so its stitch tends to be very tight… sewing on silk may not be possible.

Stay tuned for a test stitching post, yay!

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    5 Comments »

    1. Rad iron! I bet I could put some sweet creases in my pants with that baby. It steams right? When I visit again you’ll have to let me try it on a shirt.

      Comment by Jesse — June 12 2007 @ 8:27 am
    2. I’m discovering that there is a whole subculture of guys who get kicks ironing! Next time you come down I’ll get you pressing Jesse.

      Oh yes it steams… that box it sits on is full of steam pressure =D

      Comment by Danielle — June 12 2007 @ 8:58 pm
    3. I can’t help but comment here. If your needle has a wonk, change the needle. You will throw off the machine’s timing! And it will be a costly repair. And for the tight stitch on your Singer, again, have the machine overhauled. About $80 in NYC. It is worth it, b/c a bad bobbin stitch will make for puckering seams. The worst!

      Comment by Elaine — June 14 2007 @ 8:46 am
    4. Thanks Elaine for the suggestions. If only it was simply a matter of changing the needle (which I have to do more often then necessary).
      On the Necchi, it’s not the needle, but the shaft that the needle goes into that is wonky. I have had it looked at by my best machine guy and it was diagnosed as unfixable =( so what I do is put a teeny little shim in the needle groove and it works OK except with some of the attachments.

      On the Singer it was already totally overhauled though it could probably still use tweaking. The bobbin feed is fine – it’s the tension wheel on the needle thread which is the problem. I replaced the spring, the old spring is rusty and that’s why the tension is always too tight, but the new spring is tight too. I don’t want to spend too much $$ on the machine because I am holding it for someone, it doesn’t belong to me.

      We spoil our machines around here, Ray’s a machinist so they are always clean and oiled – but they are old machines too so sometimes a little cranky =)

      Comment by Danielle — June 14 2007 @ 8:59 am
    5. Woo hoo, it looks like you’re getting close to the end! Can’t wait to see the final product!

      Comment by Henna — June 19 2007 @ 11:17 am

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